You are consistently rewarding your dog's recall with a treat, just like everyone says you should, but still, their response when you call is inconsistent and lacking enthusiasm.
Maybe they finish what they are doing, then come back to you?
Maybe they turn to you when you call, but make several stops along the way?
Or maybe they just don't acknowledge your call at all?
You must have a super stubborn and defiant dog if they are not coming back to you even when you have treats...or perhaps positive reinforcement just doesn't work??
You will be pleased to know, neither are true!
Read on to find out why your dog is still unreliable and what you can do to get an enthusiastic and consistent response...
Firstly I would like to start by saying I am very much an advocate of the use of tasty, good quality food for building behaviour with our dogs. Positive reinforcement is about adding something of value AFTER a behaviour has happened, to make the behaviour more likely to happen again in the future. Food, in many cases, is the most simple and effective way to reinforce behaviour.
So why might it be ruining your dog's recall?
Let's really think about what a recall actually is from the dog's perspective...
When you call your dog, your expectation is for them to leave the really great thing they are enjoying, that they are already right next to / on top of / in the middle of, and run back to you instead even though you are probably nowhere near them.
Their arousal levels are likely very high which means typically impulse control and listening skills are of limited supply.
If you have a young dog, impulse control is at it's lowest and thrill-seeking behaviours are at their highest.
If you have a hunting breed - Gundog breed, Terriers, etc. - you are asking this of them in an environment that they are genetically wired to perform certain behaviours that will be automatically triggered by changes in the environment such as scent, sound, and movement. Behaviours that when performed, will give them the biggest rush of their lives.
Recall is the single most important skill you will ever teach your dog.
Offering them that same small piece of sausage that they get every day throughout their walks for easy stuff like sits, checking in with you, walking with you, etc... when you consider all of the above, knowing that they are getting that same old piece of sausage when you call is probably why they have absolutely no motivation to come back to you.
There are very few hunting breeds who will prioritise eating outside.
I'd say pretty much 100% of my recall clients come to me with recalls that have been taught with food. A huge percentage of them tell me that food is their dog's most favourite thing in the world. A good percentage of them already know that food is not their dog's big motivator.
I would estimate that a whopping 90% of the dogs I work through a recall training programme with, we end up not using food.
Some dog's are super motivated by food so I am not saying to rule it out as an option.
I'm just saying, don't follow what everyone else is doing and what everyone is saying you should do, or just automatically do what you've always done with your other dogs. Really think about it and experiment with your dog before starting any recall training.
So, what can you be doing instead?
Many dogs, even non-hunting breeds, are stimulated by movement.
A ball chase.
A game of tug with a super special toy.
A combination of the two - a ball on a rope that they can chase and then tug.
A flirt pole.
And if they really have absolutely no toy drive (I recommend building it!), then you can use food but you MUST make it memorable and really supercharge the value of it to separate it from all the other training you do.
Treat dummies and lotus balls are a great way of adding movement to food.
And if you are going to be using food without any predatory behaviours involved (chasing, grabbing, etc.), then make sure you are using a variety of wonderful food that makes their eyes pop out of their head OUTSIDE. You don't need a functioning recall cue in the living room so it really doesn't matter what's valuable to them there. You need to use what's valuable to them outside and for many dogs, these will be different.
Take some juicy warm roasted chicken, some Yorkshire pudding, or Lottie's personal favourite - pizza crusts!
And don't give just one tiny bit, give multiple chunky pieces and have a party while you're doing it!
Another couple of things to stick to once you've found your dog's most valuable thing...
1. Choose a cue (one word or a whistle) and stick to it. You are attaching the value of your dog's favourite thing to that cue. If your cue sounds different every time, the value and power of the different cues will be diluted instead of having just one super powerful cue.
2. Don't over use it. Aim for 5-10 times maximum on EVERY walk. This is the sweet spot for using it enough to keep building the value, while still keeping it novel and exciting.
3. Be reasonable. Teach, don't test. Every time your dog hears that special cue and it's not then followed up with something amazing, it's a massive withdrawal from the recall account you've worked hard to build. Consider environments, scent and visual distractions. Have you prepared your dog to respond under those conditions? Or are you just calling and hoping for the best, consequently setting them up for a big withdrawal from their recall account?
If you'd like to crack that recall once and for all, you can book your free call in by clicking here to chat about the best recall training options for you and your dog.
Liz Whelan GTA-AD 020 ABTC-ATI
Owner of DogScentric
Accredited Instructor with the Gundog Trainers Academy (GTA-AD 020)
Accredited Animal Training Instructor with the ABTC (ABTC-ATI)
FdSc Canine Behaviour and Training (Hull University)
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